To make the bow tie you’ll need: (contains affiliate links)
1 Fat Quarter of Fabric for Front of Bow Tie – fabrics used are from my Wonderland Two Fabric line, my Derby Style line and Safari Party line.
1 Fat Quarter of Fabric for Back of Bow Tie
1/2 yard of 20″ wide Shape Flex Interfacing (purchase from Amazon here)
2 Bow Tie Tri Glides (purchase from Amazon here)
1 package of 1/2″ wide Stitch Witchery (purchase from Amazon here)
Paper to trace pattern pieces
Bow Tie Pattern Piece – Download it on the TEMPLATES page by clicking HERE.
Cut a piece of Shape Flex interfacing to 10″ x 20″. Iron it onto the wrong side of your bow tie fabric outside piece. It won’t fit the whole fat quarter (a fat quarter is 22″ long), don’t worry we will fix that later. Just butt the edge of the shape flex up to the edge of the fat quarter on one side.
A few things to note. If your fabric is directional (i.e. it has an up and a down), make sure you cut out a right bow tie pattern piece and a left bow tie pattern piece. Otherwise half of your bow tie will be upside down. This means that you’ll have to flip the pattern piece when you cut out the 2nd piece. Just look at the photo below if you get confused.
Also the longer of the two bow tie pieces is exactly 22″ long. If your fat quarter is slightly smaller than that it’s okay. I included a generous amount of extra length to allow the bow tie to be fully adjustable.
Trace your two bow tie pattern pieces onto the fused fabric. (Important: Fuse First, then CUT).
Cut out. I found it helpful to use a small rotary cutter when I cut out my pieces, do whatever is easier for you. Just make sure you have smooth cuts.
For the bit of the longer bow tie piece that is not covered by interfacing, cut a scrap of interfacing and fuse it to the bow tie after you cut it out so that the entire piece is fused.
Cut out the two bow tie pieces from your bow tie back fabric (this fabric does not need interfacing).
Place two of your shorter bow tie pieces together, right sides facing. Pin well.
Stitch together using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Be careful to stitch precisely around the curves and pivot at the corners. On one side of the bow tie leave an 3″ opening in the straight part of the bow tie piece right past where the curve meets the straight section of the tie. Don’t leave your opening in the curved section of the tie. You also only need one opening, so stitch around the entire perimeter of the piece EXCEPT that section. (The start of the opening is noted on the pattern piece)
Carefully clip the curves and corners of the sewn bow tie piece. Be sure not to cut thorough your stitching lines. Using a dowel or un -sharpened pencil turn the bow tie piece right side out work with the piece until it resumes its shape.
Press well, making sure to fold the opening flush with the rest of the bow tie as you press.
Place a piece of stitch witchery in the opening of the bow tie piece and press to close the opening. Repeat all steps for other bow tie piece.
Feed the shorter bow tie piece though one side the tri glide one time. Pin in place
Feed the other bow tie piece though one side of a second tri glide, then back through the other side of the same tri glide. Next, feed the end of the bow tie piece though the 1st tri glide (on the side not occupied by the 1st bow tie piece). Then feed the end of the 2nd bow tie piece back through the center tri glide that coming in from underneath. I made the diagram above to help you figure that part out. Just follow the arrows. Pin in place.
To finish the tie, just hand stitch the ends of the bow tie in place. Many people like to use contrasting thread or decorative stitches for this part, but just do it as you like!
That’s it! Now go make a bunch of bow ties!