Here are 15 of my favorite bag-making tips and tricks! If you have a tip of your own, be sure to leave it in the comments section so that other people can benefit from your knowledge!
When my children were little I used to LOVE to sew clothing for them. I especially loved sewing for Halloween and Easter. I’d always start planning out my projects months in advance.
Table of Contents
- Bag Making Video Series
- 1. Use a Walking Foot
- 2. Use Binding Clips
- 3. Trim
- 4. Clip Curves
- 5. Clip and Push out Corners
- 6. Use your Iron
- 7. Read all the directions FIRST!
- 8. Reinforce Snaps
- 9. Use Scotch Tape
- 10. Use a Microtex needle
- 11. Know your Fabrics
- 12. Trim polyester zippers
- 13. Be Wary of Metal when Pressing
- 14. Make your own piping
- 15. Cover cotton webbing with fabric.
- Bag Sewing Patterns with Easy to Follow Instructions
As my children got older and didn’t want me to make them Easter dresses anymore, I noticed that I wasn’t sewing as much. Around this time, I made a tote bag on a whim.
The pattern was extra simple, and I’m sure I made a million mistakes, but something made sense in my head, and I was instantly hooked! I think the love of bag-making led to this blog in the first place!
Since then, I’ve made hundreds of bags and even branched out to create my own line of bag sewing patterns. Over the years, I’ve picked up quite a few tricks.
I hate nothing more than getting excited about a project, then not having it turn out the way I thought it would in my head. I’m here to help you avoid that feeling when sewing tote bags and purses!
Bag Making Video Series
Recently we announced a new Bag Making Series for our Saturday Duffle bag pattern. You can find all of the instructional videos on our YouTube channel. Four videos are posted one week apart, guiding you through the steps to create the duffle bag.
In light of the new bag sew along, I thought it would be a good time to revisit and update some of our best bag-making tips & tricks.
1. Use a Walking Foot
Many people associate walking feet for sewing machines with machine quilting; however, I find that they are useful for many other projects besides just making a quilt.
A walking foot is an attachment for your sewing machine that allows the top of the fabric to be fed through the machine the same way the machine feed dogs move the fabric’s bottom through the machine.
Anytime you are sewing through multiple layers of fabric (i.e., fabric, fabric linings, interfacing), I recommend using a walking foot if you have one. I recommend it if you are top-stitching around the top edge of a bag. It helps the fabric to feed more evenly through the machine and gives you a better result overall.
Walking feet are machine-specific; check with your machine’s owner’s manual to see which one you need.
2. Use Binding Clips
Binding clips are another quilting supply that carries well over to bag making. When you are sewing bags, you often work with multiple layers of fabric. Those layers can get pretty thick, and it may be hard to get a pin through it. Additionally, if you are sewing with a coated fabric, like an oilcloth, you want to avoid pinning the fabric as much as possible.
Binding clips work wonderfully for holding thick layers of fabric together.
These clips are from Clover, come in two sizes, jumbo and regular (pictured), and can be purchased on Amazon.
3. Trim
It is essential when you are constructing bags to reduce the bulk in the seam allowances. If you have a lot of bulk in your seam allowances, you will not get a smooth finish outside your bag.
I almost always trim my seam allowances and interfacings all the way up to the edge of my seam. Before trimming your seam allowance, make sure that you will not need it later! In my Retro Travel Bag Pattern, I trim only the interfacing down (2nd photo above). I do not trim down the fabric part of the seam allowance.
If I trimmed all of the seam allowances, I would not have had anything to sew the rest of the bag too! Most of the time, the pattern’s author will direct you when it’s a good time to trim down your seam allowance.
4. Clip Curves
If your bag project has a curved seam, you want to clip that seam. I like cutting tiny V-shaped notches along the curve along the seam allowance. If you do this, be careful not to cut into the seam allowance.
5. Clip and Push out Corners
Just as you want to clip curves on a bag, you also want to clip the corners. I always cut my corners at a 45-degree angle to the corner. I then use a 2 point turner, Hera tool or other “pointy” object to push the corner out to be friendly and crisp. You can purchase a 2 point turner tool on Amazon HERE.
6. Use your Iron
Manipulate and shape the fabric using a steam iron. If you’ve ever taken a quilting class, then you know that you DO NOT ever want to distort your fabric or your seams while you are pressing.
Well, I’m here to tell you that making your fabric move when you’re sewing a bag is OK! After I’m done with a bag, it will often look lopsided or not quite crisp enough. When this happens, I load up my iron with water and steam the bag until I get the shape I want.
After you’ve sewn your bag, the very last step should always be to STEAM it to get all of your fabrics flat and seams crisp.
7. Read all the directions FIRST!
Don’t just start sewing. Take a minute and read the directions before starting the bag. You may find that you need to complete extra steps or do a bit of extra prep depending on the fabric or bag style you’re making. You’ll save yourself loads of time and frustration if you just READ it all first.
8. Reinforce Snaps
This is one of the biggest tips I can give you. Many years ago, after I first discovered magnetic snaps, I was adding them to everything. However, I found that they poked holes in my fabric over time. I tried all different kinds of interfacing but still had the same problem!
Then one day, I spotted some plastic canvas at the craft store. Voila! An idea was born. I tried it, and it worked like a charm! I now use it to reinforce bag bottoms, rivets set in straps, and magnetic snaps.
Just cut a small square slightly larger than your snap and hide the canvas inside the bag lining while sewing. You can hand stitch it in place, then remove the stitches after the bag is sewn. I also use plastic canvas to reinforce rivets and bag feet.
9. Use Scotch Tape
If you are making a bag out of a coated fabric like oilcloth or laminate fabric, place a bit of scotch tape on the bottom of your presser foot, and it will glide over the top of the fabric with ease!
10. Use a Microtex needle
Microtex needles are SUPER sharp and will pierce through multiple layers of fabric with ease! I love to use them anytime I’m sewing a bag or working with multiple layers of fabric.
They fit in your machine the same as your regular sewing machine needles. You can pick up a pack on Amazon.
11. Know your Fabrics
Before starting your project, read the directions and see what the pattern author recommends for fabric type. Do they want a heavyweight fabric? Lightweight cotton? Is the pattern suitable for leather or vinyl?
Most bags can be sewn with mid and lightweight cotton fabrics. Be aware, though, if the fabric is too lightweight, it will not hold up well when the bag is used; if it’s too heavy, it will be too difficult for the machine to stitch together.
Also, make sure the fabric has no stretch. Most bag patterns are not suitable for stretchy fabrics.
12. Trim polyester zippers
Need a 10″ zipper but only have a 16″ zipper? If you’ve got a polyester zipper, did you know you can just cut it to the size you want?
Yep, easy peasy… do ever try this with a metal zipper, and be sure not to unzip the zipper until it’s sewn into the finished bag.
13. Be Wary of Metal when Pressing
Speaking of zippers, if you are sewing with metal zippers, watch out! They get very hot when they are pressed! Trust me, I’ve learned this the hard way.
Also, if you’re looking for various zipper colors and bag-making styles, I get all of my zippers from ZipIT on Etsy.
14. Make your own piping
If you are sewing a bag and can not find a color of piping that matches your fabric, buy a light color and cover it. Don’t know how? I will teach you how to in my sewing lesson all about piping!
Just cut your fabric twice as wide as your piping and on the bias, and stitch it right over the top of the store-bought stuff. Easy peasy!
15. Cover cotton webbing with fabric.
Confession, I used to HATE making bag straps. They were just too hard to get straight, and I always ended up with a bit of fabric poking out where it was not supposed to.
Then someone told me to cover cotton webbing with fabric, and a light bulb went off.
How to Do it:
- Buy cotton webbing in the width you need and cut your fabric to double the width of the fabric plus ¾″.
- Stitch the webbing to the right side of the fabric using a ¼″ seam allowance, flip the fabric over the webbing, fold under the raw edge and stitch down.
- Top stitch down the other side of the strap.
If you like making bags, you may like some of the patterns I offer in my shop. There are all sizes and types of bags, some are great for beginners, and others are perfect if you’re ready to kick up your bag, making a notch!
Bag Sewing Patterns with Easy to Follow Instructions
VISIT MY SHOP to see our full line of Bag sewing patterns. Here are just a few of my favorites!
- Retro Travel Bag Pattern
- The June Bag
- Mickey Ears version of Alice Bag Pattern
- Ruby Lou Bag Pattern
- March Bag Pattern
Kaye Walker says
Thank you so much for all the great tips. Some I knew but some I did not. I am going to use all the tips when sewing a new bag.
Janice Mc Laren says
I love making bags too and have been for more than 20 years. Your plastic canvas tip is GENIUS! I have avoided using magnetic snaps for years because they end up tearing the fabric. Thanks
Peggy says
Thanks Melissa for these great tips!
The Quilted B says
I make quite a few bags and can’t thank you enough for these tips! The plastic canvas…I agree…GENIUS! Thank you so much for these tips. I think I need to sew a bag now!
Carlotta says
Melissa, what great tips! I will use a lot of these. Thanks for sharing with your readers.
Lisa says
Hey Melissa, our quilt shop carries all of the products you are recommending – needles, zippers, Wonder Clips, etc. Please encourage your readers to shop at their local shop for bag supplies too! Oh, we also carry your fabric lines:)
Will do! Thanks for the suggestion.
I just get dozens of “I don’t live near a fabric store” emails a week, I tried to include links to avoid a few dozen “where do I get that emails” *wink*…
and, thank you so much for carrying the fabric!
Candy Geck says
Long time dress maker, new bag maker. I made several bags for this past Christmas and could have used theese tips. I still have more gifts to go that will benifit from your kindness in sharing what you love. Many thanks!!!
Pam McDonald says
Awesome tips!! Thank you, I like the one with the canvas too for snaps. I have used it for bottom of bags.
Cynthia says
Fabulous ! THANK YOU for all these wonderful tips! I can’t wait to make my next bag 🙂
Glenda Pryor says
I too, love to make bags! I appreiate all your tips, as it’s always good to learn something useful and new to make my bags look more professional. Thank You!
Sandi says
I appreciate all the tips. Once I started making bags I can’t make enough of them. Haha. I didn’t quite understand how to make the handles using the webbing. Can you explain that again? Thanks
Osla McKercher says
I’ll refer to the actual store-bought strap webbing as “webbing” and the fabric that will cover it as “fabric.” (I assume you would want to make the following happen on what would eventually be considered the “wrong” side of the strap.)
Imagine a line going down the middle of the length of the webbing (line A). Imagine a line (line B) 1/4 inch to the right of line A. The two lines run down the length of the strap parallel to each other.
Lay your fabric, right side down, on the webbing, with the right long raw edge of the fabric lined up on line B. Most of the fabric will be to your left and will be covering just over half of the left side of the webbing. 1/4 inch of the fabric will be extending over the center line of the webbing to line B. Sew the fabric and webbing together, sewing down the center of the length of the webbing (line A). Flip the fabric over onto the right side of the webbing (you will now have a 1/4 inch seam under the fabric and you’ll be looking at the right side of the fabric). Continue to wrap the fabric around and behind the long right edge of the webbing; then behind the webbing; and finally bring the fabric back to the front of the webbing again (you’ll still be looking at the right side of the fabric). Press under approximately 1/4 inch along the remaining raw edge of the fabric. The folded edge of the fabric should lay along the center line of the webbing (line A) and meet the first folded edge of the fabric.
Hope this helps. I realize your question is a little old. Maybe this will help others with the same problem. Good luck and may the odds be ever in your favor.
Barbara Hall says
Hi Melissa,
I read your instructions with ease. They explained every process with simplicity. Thank you.
I had the same problem of sewing for the the children, they grew up too fast. I found projects to keep me happy and now I have grandchildren. Bliss
Zoe Ann Hall says
Thanks so much!Ive made many bags, and these tips solve many of the” sticky points” for me! Zoe Hall
Ivory says
These bags are beautiful, beautiful, and beautiful.
Susan says
Some great tips! I too am interested in a further explanation of the webbing for straps. I hope I can find that in Canada. I am also interested in a good source of bag accessories such as bag feet, clasps etc.
Denise says
The ads are driving me crazy!
Lisa G says
Thank you so much for this post! I am a novice at bag making, and just finished sewing magnetic snaps on the pocket flaps for a bag I’m making my daughter. Now I’m wondering if I should rip them off, sew on the plastic, and then re-sew them, or if I can just sew the plastic on behind them without re-doing everything. Hmmmmm. I am definitely going to buy some webbing for the straps, though! That is pure genius!!
🙂
Kathy says
I used to use the plastic canvas with the magnetic snaps, but found that the square corners came through the front fabric with use. Now I use a circle cut from a plastic lid and put it on with the snap washer (plastic is larger than the washer). Lasts a lot longer! Just make sure you won’t be stitching where the plastic lies.
Meari says
Kathy — What a great idea!
Inge says
What great tips – I use a walking foot for all my bags & general sewing! The seams are always the same length at the end & it saves much frustration.
Stella Tidman says
Brilliant and helpful. Like the other commentators I thought the plastic canvas trick great, but also the tip for covering webbing, and piping!
Also the streaming at the end to finish bag neatly. Cant wait for my next bag project!
Jeanette K says
This article has terrific information in it! Thanks for sharing!
Cindy Massey says
Great bag-making tips! Here are a few more:
(1) Clip curved seams closely with pinking shears–they cut little wedges perfectly!
(2) Sew tubes of fabric to cover nylon or cotton webbing for straps, being sure to add an extra 3/8″ in width to allow for the thickness of the webbing. Press the seam open to center down the back of the strap, turn the tube right side out, insert the webbing, then topstitch along both sides.
(3) Before turning the tube, use a wooden yardstick or a padded “Strip Stick” (available at quilt shops) to press the tube’s seam open without creasing the tube’s sides.
Meari says
These are wonderful ideas. Thank you!
Cindy Massey says
One more tip: Automobile headliner material (brushed nylon fused to 1/4″ foam) makes great interfacing for bags. Can be spray basted to the main fabric for quilting (the spray is not permanent) or fused to the fabric using a lightweight fusible product such as Heat N Bond Lite or Wonder Under.
Meari says
Thanks for the tip, Cindy. I bought headliner but didn’t know how I should use it. Now, I do!
Gayla says
Thank you for the awesome tips. I am making one of my bags now and have a QUESTION FOR YOU… I do not want “floppy straps”. Can you please suggest something to make my Fabric straps more sturdy (without being leather).? This is a book tote (open at the top, and its not a backpack).
Thank you.
Gayla
Doreen M says
I’ve used duckcloth as a liner when making straps.
Terri says
Got to say these tips are just genius. I’m just starting my bag making journey and how pleased am I to have discovered your blog? I’m definitely going to use the webbing in handles one (and probably everything else too). Now then, where did I put my scissors? And fabric…. and…..
Betty Nelson says
Great tips. Many thanks!
Barbara Newman says
LlLove
M Ripley says
Wow some really great tips thank you for sharing.
Nadine Steelsmith says
I love the piping idea. Super. For sewing on coated fabric and plastic use a Teflon foot. Bernina makes several feet just for that purpose and I am sure other manufactures have Teflon feet also.
Helena says
I love making bags and every new tip is welcomed. Thank so much.
Martha E. says
When I cut my zippers down I use a dot of fabric glue on the end so I don’t accidentally slide the key off.
That’s a great tip! Thanks for sharing
Julianne says
This is such a great post! Thank you! I’ve loved your blog for a long time now…it’s nice to look forward to opening it:)
Barbara says
These are really good hints and I hope to use some when I make a bag. I especially like the one using the plasic canvas. But I don’t think you should buy covered cord and cover over it. I own a drapery shop and nearly all workrooms carry multiple sizes of uncovered cording and they are not that expensive. Your project will look so much more professional with new cord inside. If you want to reuse old cord, remove the covering and cut it twice the diameter plus your seam allowance. Be generous with your cut, you can always trim it after covering it.
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Patricia says
Melissa, I have another caution about metal zippers. Ironing over a metal zipper can end up being very expensive if you own a very good iron. A metal zipper should always be covered with a pressing cloth because you can ruin the sole plate of your iron when ironing over the top of a metal zipper. The zipper can create scratches on the sole plate that you can’t get out and as a result the iron can never again be used on delicate fabrics that snag easily.
Patricia says
Melissa, I didn’t read all of the comments but in the body of your article you have this sentence, “Yep, easy peasy… just do ever try this with a metal zipper and be sure to not unzip the zipper until it’s sewn into the finished bag.” I think that you meant to say, just do “NOT” ever try this with a metal zipper so you might want to make the correction in the article as this is a very important point. Also rather than shortening a zipper after I have used it I sew across the bottom of the zipper that needs shortening just below where it should end and then cut it off before installation.
I love the tip about the plastic canvas for reinforcing snaps, feet, etc. Also, the little Alice bag is precious. My friends would tell me to set the time on the bag at least five minutes late. Hey, I have ADD, five minute is almost on time for someone with ADD! Thanks for the article!
Deborah says
You can also use heavy duty elastic instead of webbing under your own fabric for handles and straps. Just sew 2-3 lines of stitching down the length of the strap
marlene person says
Hi Melissa, I love making bags and sometimes am at a lose as to what stiffening or interfacing to use. We can’t always get the right stuff here in New Zealand and I have noticed in the shows I go to that some of the bags have stiff interfacing and others don’t. Any tips you can give me would be much appreciated.
Michelle says
This may sound like a dumb question what is cotton webbing?
It’s what bag straps are made from. You can get it in Nylon or Cotton.
Toni Jones says
These are all great tips! Another suggestion for bag straps or handles is to use Beta Biothane which has a leather look and feel to it and comes in black, brown and many other colors and in many widths. It is used in horse tack and dog leashes as well due to its strength and no care attributes. Stick with the 520 type as the HD stuff is too thick for home machines and use thicker thread as well. I use it for the handles on my bags and customers love it! I have used it with rivets, Chicago screws, as well as just sewing it in place.
That’s a great tip! Thank you!
trish says
Thanks so much for this post Melissa. I was looking for help with attaching bag handles and you have provided me with some useful tips. I’ll be keeping up with your latest news.
Meari says
I’m about to embark on making my first bag so this article was SO helpful!
Patricia A Montgomery says
Do you prefer a specific size Microtex needle when making bags? I usually apply fusible foam to give my bags body, as well as fusible fleece to the lining, so they tend to be fairly thick. I find I have to go over my seams several times to make sure they are secure. Thanks.
I’ve always just bought the size Microtex needle that was available at my local shop. I don’t think there are a lot of different sizes of Microtex needles.
Michele says
great tips and I will try the mesh for magnetic snaps!
Ruthi says
Love your 15 tips for making bags article
I can’t visualize how to use the plastic canvas when using magnetic fasteners
Is it possible to show how in a picture?
Penny says
Great article and Awesome Tips from everyone!