Frame clutches are easier to make than you think and make great gifts! Learn how to draft a custom pattern for a frame clutch with this metal frame purse tutorial.
Today I’m excited to be participating in the Blog Tour for Amanda Herring’s new line Flora and Fawn (you can see the full line on the Riley Blake website). I absolutely adore this line, which should come as no surprise since I seem to have a “soft spot” for anything pink!
Since the Christmas holidays are coming up, and we are all looking for gift ideas, I thought it would be fun to show you how to make a frame clutch. The tutorial for these metal frame purses can be made in ANY SIZE! The ones that I made are small but the tutorial will teach you to make them any way that you’d like.
If you’re wondering what in the world I’m talking about. It’s these small metal frames that you attach fabric to in order to make a purse (or coin purse in this case). They come in many sizes and many finishes. You may have seen them in stores and wondered what in the world you did with them. You might have also wondered how you’d ever figure out how to made a purse the right side to fit them.
There are two basic ways to attach a frame clutch to a bag:
1- To stitch it on – clutches like this will have holes in them (like the ones in the photos above)
2- To glue it. I’ve made frame clutches with the “glue on” frames before. You can CLICK here to see those clutches.
The ones we are going to work with today are the stitch on kind. I picked them up on Etsy. Here is a direct link to the seller I used. I’m happy with the ones I ordered. (FYI: they ship from overseas if that is something that you worry about).
So let’s get down to the tutorial, shall we? (this post contains affiliate links)
1 – Frame clutch in any size. Mine were purchased here.
2- Fat Quarter of fabric for front and one for lining – I used Flora and Fawn fabric, you can get it at your favorite local shop or online here.
4- Top stitch thread
5- 2 pencils (you’ll see why in a minute)
6- Washi Tape (or masking tape)
7- Paper (graph paper is recommended)
9- Basic sewing supplies
Okay, the “general” idea of what we are doing is drafting a pattern so that the fabric curves into the frame and “poofs” out a bit at the sides and bottom. You can control the amount of “poof” – we will chat about that in a minute. You can also control the height of the clutch.
On your graph paper trace the outside of the top of your frame clutch. (it doesn’t matter if it is curved or straight).
Next, make a note of where the bottom of the metal is on the frame – I recommend marking just below the last “hole” left open for stitching. I should have brought mine up a bit in the photo above.
Now measure out 1/2″ from this point horizontally. Draw a line.
Decide how tall you’d like your clutch to be (the height the fabric part will be will stand when sitting on a table). Measure down this far from the top of the center of the frame. Draw a straight line horizontally on your paper at this point.
Using your ruler, connect the line you drew at the bottom of the frame with the line you drew for the height of the clutch. At this point, your photo will look like a curve with a rectangle underneath.
Measure in 1/2 ” (horizontally) from the bottom corners of the rectangle and place a mark. Measure down 1/2″ from the bottom of the clutch and draw a line.
Now draw two lines to connect the bottom line to the bottom of the rectangle. You are pretty much just drawing a smaller rectangle UNDER the rectangle you just drew. The 2nd rectangle is 1/2″ tall and comes in 1/2″ on both sides from the larger rectangle.
Now you have a pattern shape but no seam allowance! So let’s add some seam allowance.
Tape your two pencils together. When you draw with both pencils at the same time they should be about 1/4″ apart.
Using the pencils taped together trace along the curve you drew for the top of the clutch. Now trace around the entire perimeter of the clutch.
After you’ve completed this step, trace around the entire piece with a marker so you don’t get confused as to which line to cut on.
Cut the piece out. Fold it in half to make sure it’s symmetrical. Adjust if necessary.
Okay, remember how we said we could change the ‘poof’ of the clutch. If you want it more ‘poofy” you can change the amount it comes out from the side of the clutch. We were using 1/2″ measurements, but you can use 1″ or even bigger if you like. Just make sure that whatever amount you measure out from the side of the frame you measure the same amount out (and down) on the bottom of the frame.
Next cut out two pieces of fabric for the front of the clutch and two pieces for the clutch lining.
Also, cut out two pieces of fusible fleece. Fuse them to the wrong side of your clutch outside pieces.
Stitch your two clutch outside pieces together along the side seams and bottom seam. “Pinch” the bottom corners and stitch. Make sure you are using a 1/4″ seam allowance for all pieces.
Repeat for the clutch lining pieces. Leave a 2″ opening in the bottom of the clutch lining piece.
Turn the clutch outside piece right side out. Slip it into the clutch lining piece, right sides facing. Match seams and raw edges. Stitch around the top edge.
Clip curves and turn right side out and press.
Turn the clutch right side out using the hole you left in the lining. Slip the clutch into the frame and line it up the best that you can. If you can, match the center of the clutch with the center of the fabric clutch. Use a couple of pins to hold it in place as you work.
Using two strands of topstitch thread top stitch to the fabric. You can “try” to hide the stitches on the back, but it’s hard. Instead just use a thread that you don’t mind seeing on the lining of the clutch.
That’s it! To finish it up, hand stitch the opening in the lining closed. Also fold the center seams UNDER the hinge on the frame. I like to press it a bit to get the pleat to stay.
Like I said, you use this technique to make a clutch in any size!
Tuesday, November 14- Keera Job
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Friday, November 17- Tasha Horsely56