I am the worst at staying organized when I sew. I joke that sewing is more an exercise in “where did I put my scissors?“ than in actually creating something. All joking aside, I designed this sewing machine mat to go under my machine to keep all my most used tools close by. It even rolls up so you can take it when you travel!
I’ve seen sewing machine pad organizers floating around online for a while now. I kept meaning to make one and never did. Finally this month I decided that I’ve had enough with losing my scissors, unpickers and marking pens and designed myself a mat.
About the Sewing Machine Mat:
This mat is pretty big, so it fits my large sewing machine. You can easily size it down to the width of your machine if you’d like. It’s just a big rectangle, so you can customize it easily.
I added a fun little thread catcher to the side using snaps. You can snap it on to use it and snap it off if you roll up the mat to use as a tool caddy when you travel. You could also add a pin cushion if you’d like. I elected not to since I love using my magnetic pin bowls.
The thread catcher is attached to the right side of the mat, if you’re left-handed you can very easily attach it to the left side instead. It’s totally up to you, look at this pattern as a jumping off point for customization!
I also added a bit of ribbon to the binding of the mat so that it could be rolled up and used for travel. You can just place your notions in the pockets, fold over the top, roll it up and take it with you when you leave.
The fabric for the sewing machine mat is from the Paper Doll collection by J Wecker Frisch. She’s one of Riley Blake’s newest designers although she’s been designing for a while now. I have to say, I adore her style. She has a Halloween line coming out next year that I’m already salivating over!
Are you ready to make a sewing machine mat?
Roll Up Sewing Machine Mat Organizer:
Supplies:
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The fabric is PaperDoll by Riley Blake Designs
Fabric:
1/2 Yard for Mat Top
1/2 Yard for Mat Bottom
1/4 Yard for Pocket
1/4 Yard for Pocket Lining
1/2 Yard for Binding
1 Fat Quarter for Thread Catcher Outside (or 1/4 yard of fabric)
1 Fat Quarter for Thread Catcher Lining (or 1/4 yard of fabric)
Other Supplies:
100% cotton batting (or your preferred quilt batting). You’ll need 2 pieces one 18″ x 28″ and one 5″ x 28″.
1 yard of Ribbon
1/4 Yard Shape Flex Interfacing
1″ Wide Bias Tape Tool – I have a “multi-sized” pack that I used, I’ve linked it here.
Walking Foot for Sewing Machine
Cutting:
For Sewing Mat:
From Mat Top Fabric Cut:
1 piece 18″ x 28″
From Mat Bottom Fabric Cut:
1 piece 19″ x 29″ (Okay, I know I told you to buy 1/2 yard of fabric, which is 18″ wide. However, if you have a larger piece of fabric or your fabric is cut a bit bigger, make the bottom piece of fabric slightly larger, since it’s easier to line up when you’re quilting the layers. If you have an 18″ wide piece of fabric you will be fine!)
From Batting Cut:
1 Piece 18″ x 28″
1 Piece 5″ x 28″
From Pocket Fabric Cut:
1 Piece 5″ x 28″
From Pocket Lining Fabric Cut:
1 Piece 5″ x 28″
From Binding Fabric Cut:
1 Piece 2″ x WOF (width of fabric)
3 Pieces 2 1/2″ x WOF
For Thread Catcher:
From Thread Catcher Fabric Cut:
2 pieces each 7″ x 7″
From Thread Catcher Lining Fabric Cut:
2 pieces each 7″ x 7″
From Shape Flex Interfacing Cut:
2 pieces each 7″ x 7″
Step One: Quilting
Layer your sewing machine mat bottom, top, and batting pieces together so that you have a “sandwich” with the sewing machine mat fabrics on the outside (with right sides facing out) and the batting in the center.
Quilt straight lines every 1/2″ – 1″ along the mat. You’ll want to use a walking foot on your sewing machine for this part. You’ll also want to use a few safety pin or basting spray to keep the layers in place as you sew. If you do not want to quilt your mat you don’t have to. Just use fusible fleece instead and skip the quilting.
Repeat for the pocket pieces.
Step Two: Pocket
Run your 2″ wide piece of binding through your bias tape maker, (note we are not using fabric cut on the bias).
Place the created tape on top of the top of your pocket piece right sides facing, and raw edges even. You’ll need to unfold the tape to do this.
Stitch the tape to the top of the pocket, just inside of the first fold.
Flip the tape over to the wrong side of the pocket and press in place. Secure with binding clips. On the right side of the pocket, stitch tape in place close to the edge, making sure you’re catching the tape on the back as you sew. (If you miss a spot, just use a touch of glue to hold it down).
Place the sewn pocket piece on top of the sewing mat piece, right sides both facing up. Pin in place.
Step Three: Dividing the Pocket
Using a ruler place markings where you’d like the dividers in the pocket to be. I make 2 7″ wide pockets and 4 3 1/2″ wide pockets.
Stitch the pocket divisions in place. Making sure you backstitch at the top of each division.
Step Four: Binding
Before you bind your sewing machine mat, you’ll need to attach a bit of ribbon to it (if you want it to roll up).
Fold your ribbon piece in half and pin to the wrong side of the mat at where at the same location as the top of the pocket. Stitch in place.
Bind the mat using your preferred quilt binding method. If you need suggestions for binding techniques, I’ll link a few up below.
As you bind be careful not to catch the ribbon in the binding.
Step Five: Thread Catcher
Apply the Shape Flex interfacing to the wrong side of the thread catcher outside pieces.
On the thread catcher outside and thread catcher lining pieces, cut a 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ square from the bottom two corners.
(note: the photos are from a previous project, the assembly is exactly the same, the fabric pieces are just a different size)
Place the two thread catcher outside pieces, right sides facing and stitch down the 2 side seams, and the bottom seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Pinch the bottom “squares” so that they are flush on the edges, and stitch along the edge.
Repeat with the thread catcher lining pieces.
Turn the catcher outside piece right side out.
Slip the catcher lining piece over the outside piece so that the right sides are facing, and the raw edges are even.
Secure with pins or clips
Stitch 1/2″ down from the top edge leaving a 4″ opening in one side.
Turn right side out through the opening in the top.
Step Six: Finishing
Press well. Topstitch along the top of the catcher making sure to catch the opening as you sew.
Add two KAM snaps to the back of the thread catcher 2″ apart from each other.
Add the other halves of the two KAM snaps to the sewing mat, in your desired location also 2″ apart.
More Organization Projects and Tutorials:
This is so great! I’ve been thinking about making something on this line for a while now, so your pattern is really inspiring me! I don’t think I will adaptive very much at all – it looks like exactly what I need!
I like this a whole lot, but wish you made it easier to print off. I dislike sewing directions from the internet, I would much rather print it off and read it from paper.
I used to offer printable versions of the tutorials. Then I found out that lots and lots of stores were printing them off and selling them so I had to stop. It was a lot of people, not just a few.
Hi Melissa
Thank you for such a great pattern (linked from Sew Hot!). I’m looking forward to making this.
You said you were going to put some links to binding techniques, I can’t find them. Also, would you mind explaining how to attach the ribbon a bit more please – sorry, I’m a relatively new sewer!!
Thank you !
This looks like a wonderfully easy pattern that I think I’ll jump right into. For those that are struggling due to not being able to print the pattern I’d like to say that I usually print things like this on the Print Friendly site. It works like a dream. :o)
Thank you for the suggestion. I was not aware of their site. They have a button I can embed that keeps my copyright info on the printout. I’ve added it to the bottom of the post.